DUCK OR CHICKEN LEGS IN A TART CREAM SAUCE
Not a well known dish, yet utterly authentic and delicious. A speciality of the Bourbonais region in the centre of France. The sauce known as “Duchambais” has traditionally accompanied just about any meat. Perhaps the best known versions are those with hare and duck. Recipes vary from home to home in the Bourbonais. Here is a standard (and superb) preparation.
(For 2 people)
2 duck or chicken legs
a tablespoon of duck fat or lard
3 shallots (or an onion), very finely chopped
a clove of garlic
a tablespoon of flower
a large glass of red wine
a small glass of brown stock (or chicken stock), if available – if not, just wine is fine
a bouquet garni
2 chicken livers, or an equal amount of pork or duck livers
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
2 tablespoons of French mustard. (the local Charroux mustard would be ideal)
3 tablespoons of brandy or marc de pays
75 ml cream or crème fraiche
salt and pepper
Brown the duck or chicken legs in the fat. Remove and reserve them. If there is room in the pan, brown the livers along with the legs, but remove them when they are still a little pink within. In the same fat, gently sweat the shallots until they are extremely soft. Add the flower and stir around for a minute over medium heat. Pour in the wine and stir to blend in the flower. Add the stock and the bouquet and cover. Simmer very gently on the stove top for forty minutes.
Meanwhile, if not already done, brown the liver quickly in lard, butter or duck fat. Blend to a smooth paste along with the vinegar, mustard and brandy. After the forty minutes of cooking time, stir this into the sauce, cover again and cook for another ten minutes. Add the cream, bring back to a simmer. Season and serve.